Located on the upstairs, "executive" level of the Cockle Bay restaurant complex, Chinta Ria is the gastronomic brainchild of Simon Goh, one of Melbourne's best-known restaurateurs. Peaceful and laid back, it's the kind of place to chill out and graze on something delicious while gazing at the view and contemplating the meaning of life.

The room resembles a ritzy temple: wooden castle-style doors open onto an entrance hall enclosed by multi-coloured floor-to-ceiling curtains. Two steps further and you're face to face with a sensational stone Buddha adorned with fruit and incense offerings and surrounded by a pond. The main room, a space that's truly spacious, features exposed cement floors, stone columns and an open kitchen complete with suspended cooked ducks and grinning chefs.

The hawker-style menu is straight from the streets of Malaysia. Laksa comes three ways, including curry and chicken, and prawns are flavoured with chilli, assam, ginger or garlic. Eggplant, spinach and calamari are cooked with sambal, a light chilli prawn paste. If you're dining with pals, go the banquet route. The five-course "peace" banquet will see you rolling out the door in a most satisfied manner.